Today, we had a wonderful day spending time with our friends here, visiting for most of the day and going out to have an authentic and also very tasty Chinese meal, Yunnan style. Now that we are packing and preparing to leave for Hong Kong early tomorrow morning, and saying last good-byes to our friends, their staff and the children they support here in Kunming, I thought that Micah and I would let you guys know about some of the interesting cultural differences we experienced while here in China. Of course, although being confused with Harry Potter and having people want to take their picture with you quite a few times certainly are interesting experiences, we had to narrow them down. We have rated them from 10 to 1. So, here goes.
10. "Oh yeah, it's only a small city of 3-5 million people."
Translation: There are A LOT of people here.
I've never seen a small grocery store so packed, I've never seen a Wal-Mart so packed, I've never seen a mall so packed, and I've certainly never had less personal space than at some of the tourist spots in China. There are people everywhere in China and they are all doing something or going somewhere. In fact, I don't think I've ever been so close to so many people I didn't know in all my life. At the Temple of Heaven and the Forbidden City, it was so packed going up those stairs that I think someone could have easily bodysurfed on the crowd across the entire plaza. And, when the crowd didn't seem to be moving, people just started pushing.
It happens in traffic as well, cars cutting each other off, swerving in tight corners, running off the road, all just to move a few feet. They say that here in China, you have to fight for every inch and we have certainly seen that to be true.
9. What are you looking at?
Translation: People have no problem staring.
When I was young, I always remember being brought up to not stare at somebody who was unusual. I guess that little life lesson is kind of forgotten here in China. Now granted, we are from America and we were in some places where foreigners are unusual. Not only are we foreigners, but we are foreigners walking around with two Chinese children. I can see how that might have been confusing. But, that can't even begin to cover for the unabashed head-to-toe scrutiny we got, even in the larger cities. Walking through Wal-Mart, we felt like we were in a zoo. People would literally drop the shopping bag, put down the screaming baby, halt the cart and just...stare. Up and down, up and down; long, serious, interested stares. We would make eye contact and they just went right on staring. As I type this right now in the hotel courtyard, a few people have come up to me and snapped pictures.
8. "No ice in that coke, please and thank you."
Translation: Cold is not that important here in China.
We were always told that we would have to ask for ice in our drinks in China. Way back then, as we were getting ready to leave, I always just excused it as maybe the problem was that ice was difficult to make, or something like that. Being from the south, I don't see how you can get through a hot day (and China can definitely compete when it comes to heat and humidity) without a cold drink with ice. As we got through the trip, though (and after I had asked for ice numerous times), I began to see something very strange. You see, it is not that ice is non-existent or that it is difficult to make. It is always back in some side freezer or in a little bucket on the airplane cart, accessible and everything. The problem is: nobody wants any. One time, we asked for ice and we got two cubes. Thanks, a lot. To me, there is not a whole lot that is worse than a hot coke on a hot day and I saw plenty of people, as hot as I was, wanting the coke off the shelf, instead of the coke off the freezer.
Even when you walk into a store or home to get out of the heat, the air is not any cooler. And, these are the shops that do have air conditioning. They just only turn it up to about a fourth of the power we do. Let's just say, the beauty of 'cold' has not come full circle here in China.
7. "It's hot outside, let me roll up my shirt."
Translation: No comment.
Speaking of heat, whenever it was extremely hot outside, in every city we have ever been in, it is apparently the style for the men to take their shirt and roll it up half-way (not the sleeves, but the actual shirt), just above their stomach. It happened everywhere, regardless of whether it was in the mall or the village road. It didn't matter if it was a muscle shirt or a long button-down, it was rolled halfway up. And, for some reason, it always seemed to be the men with the large bellies. It was just something we at first thought was one weirdo at a time, but after a while we noticed a trend. Finally, we had to ask ourselves, "What's up with men and their shirts rolled up half-way?" We never figured out. This made for a very...interesting cultural experience.
6. "No scribbling or firing in the Bonsai garden."
Translation: We got a kick out of the language barrier...on both sides.
So, the joke goes: Someone that can speak two languages is deemed bilingual, while someone who speaks only one language is called...an American. Thankfully for us, most of the signs in China are in English and Chinese and there are so many people in so many different places who speak at least a little bit of English (better than our 'little bit' of Chinese). However, in spite of this wonderful commitment to never leaving us English-speakers confused, some of these amazing translations including the ones on official monuments and museums, left us a little puzzled...and laughing as well. For example, we still haven't figured out what the scribbling or firing was all about, but I can assure you that this was on an official government sign at the Huangguoshu Waterfalls we visited in Guizhou. Some of our other favorites include: "North Gaet", "Rice Krisples", "Honey Nutos", "Grown (supposed to be Crown) Prince", and a breakfast menu that marketed granola-like breakfast cereal to us as oatmeal, and when we tried to explain, brought us their "porridge", a watery, brown, thin mixture.
Experiencing a very real language barrier has also been difficult at times, but still funny nonetheless, as when Jay famously decided to simply walk out of the restaurant with the food to demonstrate 'to-go' after a long and drawn out process, or the time in the Beijing KFC where my mom and clerk across the counter screamed for joy when they had finally communicated the idea of 3 sandwiches, two with the meal combo. When we have tried to use our Chinese we have been moderately successful, but it is interesting to watch a slight smile creep up on their faces as you try wildly to remember how to say 'cup of coffee.' We would like to take the time to apologize to our Chinese tutor, Mrs. Ling :).
5. "Mommy, look! There are cars driving on the sidewalk!"
Translation: Yes, drivers are crazy in China.
Yes, it is true. There are so, so, so, so, so many people here in China, that at times, if the driver gets frustrated enough, he will simply drive his car on the sidewalk instead. Either, it's not against the law or the law doesn't matter. At times, both are probably true, so take your pick.
Motorcycles on the sidewalk are already a common occurrence here, so I won't say much about that. In addition, contrary to your instinct, in China, when the light turns green, do NOT go. You might not survive the attempt. The cars simply keep on going. Rather, it is up to you, the helpless little pedestrian, to somehow doge the cars, motorcycles and bikes all the way to the other side of the street.
4. Chinese Television = Comic Relief
Translation: We died laughing.
At times, for those of us who were sick and confined to the room for some periods of time, there was not a whole lot else to do besides turn on the television. When we did, we got much more than we expected. Take the cheesiest soap opera you've ever flipped by and multiply that times ten and you've got the typical Chinese television. Not only does the quality look like something done with a simple family video camera, but the acting is also hysterically The extreme close-up of the fake eye-drop tear as it rolls down someone's cheek and the strange, forced, contorted facial expressions. They are a must-see if you ever come to China. Even their reality TV is hilarious. If you can get a music video, though, those are the best.
3. Don't Drink the Water
Translation: We deserve a medal for our ability to refrain from drinking, brushing our teeth in or even ingesting a small, small amount of Chinese tap water for almost a month.
You should try coming to China for as long as we did and see if you can go the whole time without so much as getting one drop of tap water in your system. It is very, very difficult. I don't know what would happen if we would have drunk the water, but thankfully, we never found out. Let's just say, it was an interesting experience (even if not an entirely cultural one), especially that time (we all had one) when you suddenly realize what you have been brushing your teeth with and you scream and spit and....let's not go into the details.
2. And you thought people in Louisiana ate weird things...
Translation: Wow. Just, wow.
There have already been plenty of posts that have described in detail the things we have all witnessed. Let's just say, Chinese people enjoy eating just about every part of everything and they like seeing it live (or at least proudly displayed) before they eat it. We were reminded of this when we went to eat our meal with the children and they served us the all-time favorite: Chicken feet.
1. Two Chinas
On the way home from going to visit the children we support the other day, our friend talked to us a little about China and some of the problems it faces. The way she put it, China is constantly behind a mask. For the Chinese, it is all about the presentation, all about the outward image, all about saving face.
To explain it a little better, there are two vastly different Chinas. On the one hand, there is the China of the twenty-first century, the China of the growing economy and the creation of a new middle class in the cities, the China of the five star hotels and the luxury resorts. This is the China that is often presented to the West. On the other hand, there is the China of the small villages, the China of the forgotten orphans we visited on Saturday, Anna's China. This is the China that the West rarely sees, off in the small, remote towns and villages in the rural areas, where poverty is rampant and most people do not have enough money to eat from day to day. This is how the world-renowned golf resort lies on one side of the mountain and on one bank of the lake, while a village where half-clothed children play in the rubbish with the hens and the dogs is set on the other side of the mountain, only minutes away, but disguised nonetheless.
One prime example is this city where we are in, Kunming. Kunming is desperately trying to expand and make itself an international resort city and tourist destination. This explains the great expansion of the beautiful, well-landscaped government section of town and the creation of the beautiful, high-end golf resorts and a brand new international airport. In order to become a beautiful, international city, Kunming is having to deal with the issues of poverty, lack of education, and lack of food and basic necessities for many of its people in the slum-like areas that are dotted throughout the city. Instead of working to solve the problem, however, the tenements that the poor live in are simply bulldozed and the beggars and homeless, and the poorer families that inhabit these areas are simply told to leave. Another mask is put on and a true problem simply covered up. Our friends tell us that it is this way all over China, with all sorts of problems.
All we can say is that it has been a truly eye-opening experience to see and learn about both Chinas and both ways of life. This is a beautiful country filled with a new sense of opportunity and growth on the horizon, but still a country with so many problems. The most we can do is hope that these problems will be solved in the near future.
Next stop: Hong Kong!...and then, finally, home!